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Education

Skincare Glossary

Medical-grade skincare can feel overwhelming. Here's every term, ingredient and concept explained in plain English.

A

Abyssinian Oil

Ingredients

A highly anti-inflammatory oil rich in vitamin E, linoleic and linolenic acids that support skin regeneration, conditioning and barrier repair.

Acne

Skin Conditions

A skin condition where hair follicles become clogged with sebum and dead skin cells, resulting in whiteheads, blackheads or inflamed pimples.

Advanced Glycation End Products (AGEs)

Biology & Science

Proteins or lipids that become chemically altered after prolonged sugar exposure. They are considered a key biological marker linked to skin ageing and several degenerative conditions, including diabetes.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

Ingredients

Naturally occurring acids found in fruits, sugar cane and milk. Used as chemical exfoliants to dissolve the bonds holding dead skin cells together, revealing brighter and smoother skin beneath.

Androgens

Biology & Science

A group of sex hormones responsible for regulating reproductive health, puberty and physical development. They also influence sebum production, which can impact skin oiliness and acne.

Antioxidants

Biology & Science

Protective molecules within the body that neutralise free radicals, helping to prevent or slow oxidative damage to skin cells and reduce visible signs of ageing.

Arbutin

Ingredients

A skin-brightening compound and antioxidant that inhibits melanin production, helping to visibly reduce hyperpigmentation and create a more even skin tone.

Avobenzone

Sun Protection

A chemical sunscreen agent that absorbs and dissipates UVA radiation, providing broad-spectrum protection against sun-induced skin damage.

Avocado Oil

Ingredients

A nourishing plant oil with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps moisturise, soothe and calm a range of skin conditions, from dryness to irritation.

B

Biomimetic Peptides

Ingredients

Synthetic peptides that closely mimic proteins found naturally in skin. They stimulate fibroblast activity, boosting the production of collagen and elastin fibres for firmer, more youthful-looking skin.

C

Ceramides

Ingredients

Naturally occurring lipid molecules that form the structural backbone of the skin barrier. They lock in moisture, shield against environmental stressors and help prevent transepidermal water loss.

Chloasma

Skin Conditions

A form of hyperpigmentation — sometimes called the "mask of pregnancy" — that presents as darker patches on the skin, most commonly triggered by hormonal changes or UV exposure. Also referred to as melasma.

Collagen

Biology & Science

The most abundant structural protein in the body, responsible for giving skin its firmness, elasticity and smooth appearance. Its natural production declines with age, contributing to fine lines and sagging.

D

Dehydrated Skin

Skin Conditions

A temporary skin condition — not a skin type — in which the skin lacks sufficient water content. It can affect any skin type and presents as tightness, dullness and an increase in the appearance of fine lines.

Dermal Filler

Treatments

Injectable substances used to restore volume, smooth deep lines and enhance facial contours. Common fillers include hyaluronic acid-based formulations.

E

Elastin

Biology & Science

A structural protein produced by the body that gives skin its ability to stretch and then spring back into shape. Elastin loss over time leads to skin laxity and wrinkling.

Emollient

Ingredients

An ingredient that softens and smooths the skin by filling in microscopic cracks in the surface. Emollients create a protective layer that reduces moisture loss.

F

Fitzpatrick Scale

Biology & Science

A clinically recognised classification system that categorises skin into six types based on its natural tone and its likelihood to tan or burn when exposed to UV light.

Free Radicals

Biology & Science

Unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution and other environmental stressors. They damage skin cells and accelerate the visible signs of ageing by breaking down collagen and DNA.

Fibroblasts

Biology & Science

Specialist cells in the dermis responsible for synthesising collagen, elastin and other connective tissues that form the skin's structural support network.

G

Glycolic Acid

Ingredients

The smallest and most potent of the alpha hydroxy acids, derived from sugar cane. It penetrates deeply to chemically exfoliate, smooth texture, fade pigmentation and stimulate collagen production.

H

Hibiscus Oil

Ingredients

A botanical oil celebrated for its ability to enhance the skin's capacity to retain moisture, contributing to a more supple and youthful-looking complexion.

Homosalate

Sun Protection

An organic UV filter primarily used in sunscreens to absorb UVB radiation and help prevent sunburn.

Hyaluronic Acid

Ingredients

A naturally occurring molecule that can hold up to 1,000 times its own weight in water. Used in skincare to draw moisture into the skin and maintain deep hydration across all skin layers.

Hydromanil™

Ingredients

A natural active ingredient derived from tara seeds that forms a protective film on the skin, shielding against dehydration and external environmental stressors.

Hyperpigmentation

Skin Conditions

A widespread, typically harmless condition where certain areas of skin appear darker than the surrounding complexion, caused by an overproduction of melanin.

Hypoallergenic

Terms & Labels

A term used to describe products formulated to minimise the risk of triggering allergic reactions, typically by excluding common sensitising ingredients.

I

Insulin

Biology & Science

A hormone produced by the pancreas that regulates blood glucose levels. Research has linked chronically elevated insulin (from high-sugar diets) to increased sebum production and acne breakouts.

K

Kinetin

Ingredients

A naturally occurring plant growth hormone with antioxidant and cell-renewal properties. In skincare, it helps combat signs of ageing while being considered gentle enough for sensitive skin types.

Kojic Acid

Ingredients

A by-product of sake fermentation, kojic acid inhibits melanin production and is widely used to brighten the complexion and fade age spots, sun damage and post-inflammatory marks.

L

L-Ascorbic Acid

Ingredients

The most bioavailable, scientifically validated form of vitamin C. A potent antioxidant that neutralises free radicals, stimulates collagen synthesis and visibly brightens uneven skin tone.

Linoleic & Linolenic Acid

Ingredients

Essential fatty acids that are critical for maintaining a healthy skin barrier. They support cellular regeneration, help soften and smooth the complexion, and reduce the visibility of fine lines.

Lipids

Biology & Science

Fatty molecules that serve as the primary building blocks of cell membranes. In skin, lipids form an integral part of the protective barrier, sealing in moisture and shielding against irritants.

M

Mango Butter

Ingredients

A naturally rich emollient derived from mango seeds, loaded with vitamins C and E. It is an effective skin softener and moisturiser, especially suited to dry or maturing skin.

Melanin

Biology & Science

The natural pigment responsible for the colour of our skin, hair and eyes. It also acts as a form of protection against UV radiation, absorbing harmful rays to prevent deeper skin damage.

Melanocytes

Biology & Science

Specialist pigment-producing cells found in the deepest layers of the epidermis. They generate melanin, which is then transferred to surrounding skin cells.

Melasma

Skin Conditions

A chronic pigmentation condition presenting as symmetrical brown or greyish patches, most commonly on the face. Frequently triggered by hormonal changes, pregnancy or UV exposure.

Microbiome (Skin)

Biology & Science

The vast community of beneficial bacteria, fungi and microorganisms living on the skin's surface. A balanced skin microbiome is essential for maintaining a resilient barrier and preventing inflammation.

N

Niacinamide

Ingredients

A highly versatile form of vitamin B3 that functions as a powerful antioxidant. It reduces hyperpigmentation, strengthens the skin barrier, regulates sebum production and minimises the appearance of pores.

O

Octinoxate

Sun Protection

A common chemical UV filter found in many sunscreens and skincare products, used to absorb UVB radiation and help prevent DNA photo-damage in skin cells.

Octisalate

Sun Protection

A liquid UV-absorbing compound used in sunscreen formulations to specifically absorb UVB rays, while also enhancing the water-resistant properties of a formula.

Octocrylene

Sun Protection

A sunscreen ingredient that absorbs both UVA and UVB radiation. It also functions as an emollient, giving formulas a smooth and moisturising texture.

Oxybenzone

Sun Protection

An organic UV-absorbing compound derived from benzophenone, used in sunscreens for its ability to filter both UVA and UVB rays and extend the longevity of other UV filters.

P

Peptides

Ingredients

Short chains of amino acids that act as biological messengers in the skin. Depending on their structure, peptides can signal the skin to produce more collagen, relax facial muscles, or strengthen the barrier.

Photo-damage

Skin Conditions

Cumulative, structural changes to skin tissue caused by prolonged or repeated exposure to UV radiation. Visible signs include uneven pigmentation, wrinkles, loss of elasticity and a rough texture.

Pituitary Gland

Biology & Science

A small but highly influential gland at the base of the brain. Known as the body's "master gland," it controls the activity of most other hormone-secreting glands, including those that regulate skin-related hormones.

Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)

Skin Conditions

A form of discolouration that develops after the skin experiences inflammation — such as acne, eczema or a wound — leaving behind flat, darker patches after the initial irritation has healed.

R

Retinoic Acid

Ingredients

The active form of vitamin A used topically in prescription treatments. It accelerates cell turnover, stimulates collagen synthesis and significantly reduces fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.

Retinaldehyde (Retinal)

Ingredients

The intermediate form of vitamin A, sitting one conversion step away from retinoic acid. It delivers powerful anti-ageing and acne-clearing benefits while being notably less irritating than retinoic acid.

Retinoids

Ingredients

A family of vitamin A derivatives — including retinol, retinal and retinoic acid — widely regarded as the gold standard in anti-ageing skincare for their ability to stimulate collagen and accelerate skin cell renewal.

Retinol

Ingredients

The most widely available over-the-counter vitamin A derivative. It converts in the skin to retinoic acid, where it exfoliates, unclogs pores and stimulates collagen to reduce fine lines and improve skin texture.

Rosacea

Skin Conditions

A chronic inflammatory skin condition characterised by persistent redness, visible blood vessels and sometimes acne-like breakouts. It most commonly affects the central face and can be triggered by heat, alcohol and UV exposure.

S

Salicylic Acid

Ingredients

A beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that is oil-soluble, allowing it to penetrate deep into pores. It dissolves the bonds between dead skin cells, unblocks congestion, reduces inflammation and prevents future breakouts.

Sebaceous Glands

Biology & Science

Small, oil-secreting glands attached to hair follicles throughout the skin. They produce sebum, which helps lubricate and waterproof the skin and hair.

Sebum

Biology & Science

The natural waxy, oily substance produced by sebaceous glands. It forms part of the skin's protective acid mantle, sealing in moisture and defending against bacteria and environmental damage.

Shea Butter

Ingredients

A deeply nourishing fat extracted from the shea tree nut. Rich in fatty acids and vitamins, it rapidly absorbs into the skin, replenishing lost lipids and creating intense, lasting moisture.

SPF (Sun Protection Factor)

Sun Protection

A standardised measurement indicating how effectively a sunscreen shields skin from UVB rays, which are the primary cause of sunburn and a significant contributor to skin cancer risk.

Squalane

Ingredients

A stable, lightweight version of squalene — a lipid naturally found in skin — that acts as an exceptional emollient. It absorbs rapidly without clogging pores, leaving skin smooth, soft and hydrated.

T

Testosterone

Biology & Science

An androgen hormone that stimulates sebum production. Elevated testosterone levels — particularly during puberty or hormonal fluctuations — are closely linked to oily skin and acne development.

Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL)

Biology & Science

The passive evaporation of water through the outer layers of skin. A high rate of TEWL indicates a compromised skin barrier, resulting in dryness, sensitivity and inflammation.

U

UVA

Sun Protection

Long-wave ultraviolet radiation that penetrates deep into the dermis. UVA is the dominant cause of premature ageing, pigmentation and indirect DNA damage. It is also the primary radiation used in tanning beds.

UVB

Sun Protection

Shorter-wave ultraviolet radiation that primarily affects the epidermis. UVB is the leading cause of sunburn and plays the greatest role in the development of skin cancers, including malignant melanoma.

X

Xerosis (Dry Skin)

Skin Conditions

The medical term for chronically dry skin. It occurs when the skin loses moisture faster than it can replenish it, leading to tightness, flaking and sometimes itching. Also referred to as xeroderma.

Z

Zeatin

Ingredients

A naturally occurring plant cytokinin (growth regulator) that has been shown to have antioxidant properties and the ability to promote cellular renewal, making it a valuable ingredient in anti-ageing formulations.

Zinc Oxide

Sun Protection

A mineral UV filter that physically reflects and scatters both UVA and UVB rays. It is widely considered one of the safest, most effective and least irritating sunscreen ingredients available.

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