Anti-Ageing Skincare: What Actually Works (And What Doesn't)

The anti-ageing skincare market is enormous, and the claims made within it are often extraordinary. Lifting. Firming. Erasing. Turning back the clock. Most of it is marketing. Some of it is genuinely backed by evidence.

Here is what the research actually says.

What causes skin to age?

Skin ageing has two drivers. Intrinsic ageing is biological — the gradual slowdown of cell turnover, collagen production, and hyaluronic acid synthesis that happens regardless of what you do. Extrinsic ageing is environmental — primarily UV damage, but also pollution, lifestyle factors, and oxidative stress.

The good news is that extrinsic ageing is largely preventable. The bad news is that most people underestimate how much of their visible ageing is driven by it.

Ingredients with genuine evidence

Retinol — The most well-evidenced anti-ageing ingredient available without prescription. Stimulates collagen production, accelerates cell turnover, and improves skin texture, tone, and firmness with consistent use. RETINOVA delivers retinol with barrier-boosting support.

Vitamin C — Neutralises free radical damage, stimulates collagen, and brightens hyperpigmentation. Needs to be at an effective concentration — 20% in C20. Most effective in the morning before SPF.

SPF — Not glamorous, but the most evidence-backed anti-ageing intervention available. Preventing UV damage is more effective than treating it after the fact. PROTECT SPF 50 daily.

Peptides — Signal proteins that encourage collagen and elastin production. Effective in the right concentrations and formulations. Found in FREEZE Tx Boost® Serum.

Hyaluronic acid — Does not prevent ageing but restores the hydration and plumpness that ageing skin loses. Most effective at multiple molecular weights — as in QUENCH.

What does not work

Collagen in moisturisers — collagen molecules are too large to penetrate the skin. Eating collagen supplements has limited topical relevance. "Stem cell" creams — plant stem cells applied topically do not interact with human skin cells in the way marketing suggests.

The gap between what the evidence supports and what the marketing claims is significant. Focus on the ingredients above, used consistently, at effective concentrations.

The Emerald Derma anti-ageing routine

Morning: PREPARE or REVEAL → C20 → H₂∞ → PROTECT SPF 50

Evening: PREPARE or REVEAL → RETINOVA or FREEZE → H₂∞

Weekly: PEEL PADS 2-3x, SUPER XO+ for intensive treatment

Shop the anti-ageing range at Emerald Derma